Saturday, January 13, 2018

Hilarious description

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This week I bought the January Burda issue and browsing through it this top, and especially its description had my attention. Written by someone who has no understanding of modern, functional fabrics and never goes to the gym. Don’t know whether it’s the same in the English issue of the magazine, but in Dutch it says “Sport shirts often have the disadvantage to be close fitted.  This restricts your movement. Our suggestion: make this shirt with a full draped back.

I didn’t care to check their description of sports shirts they published before, but thought this one was hilarious.

Off to trace a pattern from this magazine (not this one).

Tuesday, January 9, 2018

First project of 2018

The first project of 2018 is a blouse from Burda magazine, issue November 2017. Line drawing
A full review is up on Pattern review.
I’ve been tempted to try this style garment for a long time. I bought McCalls’s 1661 years ago but in the end doubted whether the style would suit me, being a non-fitted garment. Plus the fact that for the McCalls’ pattern you need fabric which is the same on both sides, not always an easy requirement.
When I saw this pattern in Burda magazine, I knew it was time to finally try it and get out of my comfort zone. I took a fabric that has been lingering in my stash for a long time too. I’m pretty sure I bought it at Walthamstow market in the UK, when I visited my friend Pauline. A visit I can date back to 2012!
The print of the fabric is very much me, and in the past half year I’ve made 3 garments with a combination of black and navy.
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I consider this a pattern that is very well drafted and has been given a lot of thought in the design. It has a lining in the front in camisole style, with darts to shape it. This lining and the construction with pleats at the bottom, make for a neat finish and no need for fabric that has two right sides. A big plus for that.
The instructions on the other hand are aweful, Order of construction as in almost all Burda magazine patterns but they try to tell something about the binding of the neckline (to the mark, tapering…) that I could not really get and I just bound the neckline as I would do for any top.  Next up was the instruction how to attach that lining and the front to the yoke. I could not make sense of it. What I did was fold over the facing of the front and match the armhole of the lining and the front. That made it easy to attach it to the yoke. Which has 2 layers and Burda expects you to hand sew the inside seams. Never heard of the burrito method apparently, which I used and lots of tutorials for it can be found online.
The style is something I’ll have to get used to. It isn’t bad and when the weather gets a bit warmer I’ll certainly give it a try.
It’s a pattern in the tall sizes btw. I didn’t change the length in the body or the sleeves, nice for a change.
If you consider this pattern you might want to make the neckline of the lining a bit higher. I still need to add a snap to prevent unwanted exposure.

Wednesday, January 3, 2018

Happy New Year

Purple Red White and Orange Fireworks Display

Happy new year to all of you!. May 2018 be all you want it to be.

I have no resolutions to share with you, I didn’t make any. Also no wrap up of last year, in which I made more garments than I showed on my blog. 2017 was not my best blogging year. I’m not committing to blog more this year, you all know that it all depends on what I sew and how much time is left for blogging. I just will be there now and again and show you what I’m working on.


I’ve put my jacket aside for the moment, I didn’t feel the love for it and I will have a look later this year to see how I feel about it then. That made room in my mind for new things and I’ve traced two garments from Burda magazines. That’s one thing I want to try again this year: use my magazines more!

Hope to see you around on my blog this year! A (late) toast to the online sewing community!

Bril, Red, Toast, Wijn

Tuesday, November 21, 2017

Knip mode dress–October 2017

There is a reason my jacket is not finished yet. I’m too easily distracted sometimes. I’ve been sewing dresses. One of them is a dress from the Knip Mode October issue.

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A relatively easy dress to sew. The back darts of the line drawing are not in the pattern. My full review is on Patternreview.

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In different light the colour looks almost purple on my screen. It’s a warm, dark red in real life.
In these pictures you see that the pleats of the skirt are done first, then the bodice is attached and the pleats of the bodice partially cover the waist seam.

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Monday, November 20, 2017

Shoulder shield

In the comments on my previous post I was asked to write more about the shoulder shield. There is not so much to tell about it apart from the fact it gives more structure and a little firmness to that area of a jacket.

Browsing through my blog photos I found quite a few photos of shoulder shield I installed in jackets. The floating one is a technique I’ve use only in the past two years, I think I found the instructions for this in Alison Smith’s Craftsy class.

A good introduction to the inner construction of jacket can be found in aThreads magazine article on an Armani jacket. A good reference book, I’ve recommended it before is Tailoring, two editions have different covers:

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I have quite a collection of sewing books and books on tailoring are a special category in those. From all books I’ve learned something, but this book is quite often the first one to take from the book shelves when I want to check upon something on the subject of interfacing.

I don’t remember when I first started to use a shoulder shield, it’s been in jackets that I made 10 years ago.

Below photos of the inner construction of jackets I’ve made in the past years. Different ways of construction, but always a shoulder shield.

 

Tuesday, October 31, 2017

Slow progress

I was quite busy and my head hasn’t been with writing blog posts in the past two weeks. Also not a lot was done to the coat. I intended to take it to my annual 5-day “weekend” with my sewing friends and complete it there, but changed my plans into sewing easy knit dresses for both me and my daughter and a pants sloper. The event was this past weekend and it was such good fun. Lots of sewing and knitting done by all of us, talked about all subjects you talk about between girls and just had a very good time together.

Another thing that is keeping my mind busy is that I might start giving sewing lessons/workshops next year. An opportunity came across and I’ve been thinking a lot about how to do it, what courses to offer etc. It will be something I will do next to my regular work, though it’s been on my mind for a long time to do this and share and meet with creative people. So much to think about….

Back to the coat. I’ve a few pictures to share of the inside of the front.

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Floating shoulder piece

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The facing not sewn yet, this was just to see how it would be with buttons. I will check other options as I’m not completely fond of the button closure.

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Wednesday, October 18, 2017

Short coat–Lekala 4625 back

It took me some time to find a pattern I wanted and could sew with the fabric I had. As this fabric was bought with the intention of sewing a Chanel style jacket I had only about two meters of fabric. Think it was a remnant piece as there were strange cut offs on both sides, probably for samples.
Having two meters to sew a coat is not much, to say the least. My choice of patterns was very limited and I settled for this Lekala pattern.
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I will try to find an accent fabric for the belt/closing and if I can’t find it, I might skip that detail and sew buttonholes. I’m also thinking of adding pockets. A coat without pockets isn’t very good, don’t you think?
After roughly cutting the fabric pieces I block-fused them with a thin fusible interfacing. This I bought at the English couture company in the UK. (I used to buy most of my interfacing at Fashion Sewing supply from Pam Erny, but as they don’t ship internationally anymore I had to find another resource and this is certainly a good one. Great quality too).
The interfacing gives more stability to the fabric and keeps it from ravelling.
From that point I treat the fabric as the base fabric, meaning that I still added interfacing as I would for any jacket or coat that I did not block fuse with thin interfacing first.
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A back stay is added. The darts are pressed in the opposite direction from the darts of the main fabric. It could be better to stitch the seams with a catch stitch to keep them down. Something for another evening.
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A walking foot is almost a must to keep the lines matching.
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